MONARCH USN WW-2 REPRO AN-J-3, M-422, G-1 HORSE HIDE LEATHER FLIGHT JACKET BUILD

Description: For a proposed build you are now admiring some of my custom made WW-2 vintage type Monarch jackets. In this case, a AN-J-3 (leather collar) & a civilian version patterned from Monarch's mil spec AN-J-3A contract. Exactly as was done for the private sector by Monarch using their mil spec patterns during WW-2. Built to suit in sizes 36 through 48. Priced here using a dark brown colored Italian horse hide. However, If done using goat hide verses horse hide it can be done at a 5% saving under that quoted price. Let me tell you about this jacket! This proposed build duplicates one of the two styles Monarch followed with their War era AN model jacket verses the pre War M-422 design. Those Monarch jackets seen in the descriptive attached (sized 40 Long, 44 Regular, 44 Long, 46 Long & 48 Long) images are only examples of this proposed AN-J-3 model jacket that were previously built or restored by me. None are included nor for sale here. However, all are fine examples of exactly what you can expect for your proposed build. Notably, the AN-J-3 jacket was not a true mil spec issue jacket. However, they were no doubt considered as a viable jacket option by either the USN and USAA at one point. As evidenced by that last photo seen within the descriptive images. Marked as having been taken in 1943. Above all, showing a jacket exactly like this one I am proposing here for your build. The Monarch AN-J-3 (leather collar verses mouton collar) model contract I am proposing for this build all date WW-2. Note that within the descriptive images I have included a WW-2 era pic of an AN-J-3. That pic is marked as having been taken in 1943 and more than likely a test jacket. However, this particular jacket would have been made for the civilian market during and soon after the War. All created using the patterns developed for the military. Likewise and leading up to recreating this model jacket, I have completely restored many originals from this same model jacket in sizes 36 through 46 which followed this exact design. Some of which are now within my personal collection. Worn on the occasion and used for permenant reference. All serious collectors & previous to my finding a Large War era Monarch USN jacket I had spoken with in regards to these Monarch jacket's sizing believed that all WW-2 USN Monarch jackets were only built in Small and Medium sizes. However after many years of collecting I am fortunate enough to have found several Large size WW-2 era USN Monarch jackets. Using my originals as pattern jackets I can now accurately duplicate these Monarch's correctly in any size. All were taken down to their individual panel pieces. While apart I patterned them complete. Thereafter I painstakingly restored by going so far as reusing their original stitch holes throughout. Now robust enough to be worn by me on the occasion. Subsequently, I've made these same Monarch jackets my concentration for reproducing. One of the more premier WW-2 military jacket makers I greatly admire it's style, comfort and look. Above all other makes this particular jacket is my most favorite vintage jacket maker for both civilian & Mil Spec jackets. Let me tell you all about what you can expect with one of my custom builds! Arguably the most form fitting of all the early to mid War USN leather flight jackets, this make jacket is best suited for those with an athletic build yet extremely comfortable if correctly sized to the individual. The late War version is by far the most form fitting & flattering of all WW-2 model jackets. Not overly long or bulky like many of the earlier M-422A model USN jackets. To begin I use a vegetable or chrome tanned hides. It can be done in either horse hide or goat hide. The hides I have that are readily available are 1.1 to 1.2 mm thickness. Much like these jackets originally made. All unlike more modern chrome tanned hide a vegetable tanned jacket's hide will improve it's look with wear. Thus only get better looking with time and ultimately developing patina & an attribute not found with more modern chrome tanned jackets. The five of Monarch AN-J-3 jacket examples seen in the provided descriptive images were done using a brown colored horse hide. However, I have also done them in brown colored goat hide and a goat hide version which is seen intermingled within the descriptive images. In addition, I also a have other colors in horsehide available to include russet and black. As a more economical option goathide can be utilized in lieu of horsehide. Historically, goat hide was always used by the USN to build almost (there was one exception of a single late war W&G AN-J-3A 288-35805 contract in horsehide which I have also developed and recently made available for reproduction) all USN flight jackets. I have three color options when using goat hide. To include chocolate, seal brown, or pigment dyed russet. The over dyed russet is a most interesting technique. More often that not used by Monarch on some of it's early M-422 and AN model jackets. Given wear, the dyed russet will eventually loose portions of it's top coat. Thereafter revealing russet undertones to the high wear areas. That particular AN-J-3 goat hide jacket as seen in the descriptive images (half opened & lacking the Horse Hide Label) was in fact made using a goat hide. Done with an over dye to a russet colored base. Eventually and given some wear that over dye will give way to reveal beautiful russet undertones along high places. A set up often found used on WW-2 era USN flight jackets and more often than not original done to those vintage Monarch made jackets In addition I recently sourced a seal brown colored vegetable tanned goat hide. Done to my color and thickness specifications. All three of the different color goat hides I have available were all original utilized on Monarch's WW-2 era jackets. Please contact me with regards to those options. The rayon lining material to be used for your build was sourced out of the UK. That same standard type lining & colors originally used on USN type WW-2 flight jackets. This same proposed material to be used is the absolute thickest and correctly colored rayon I have ever found. Please note, lining upgrades are available. In fact both jacket examples shown were done upgraded using a rayon material that is cotton backed. In addition, linings can be doubled. All USN type WW-2 era Monarch jackets used that unique colored dull purple knits as seen on all example jackets on both their USN military issue and civilian jackets. Subsequently, I have had those same colored knits specially made. Thus more closely duplicating those original war era made Monarch jackets. This proposed jacket is priced to come with a correct era NOS Talon zip, upgrade Talon (with rays) as seen within the descriptive images) slider and same era buttons. For the main label I am using an early Monarch type. However, should you choose not to use an original type WW-2 era Talon zipper assembly a reproduction can be substituted. In that event a price adjustment can be arranged. All War era Monarch jackets were originally built using a burgundy colored 100% cotton thread. I have found an exact match to that originally used thread. Also made within the USA. This thread nicely contrasts any color hide & greatly compliments the dull purple knits like no other & all seen throughout the descriptive images. Recently, retired my vintage Reece 101 Keyhole Buttonhole machine. Going forward I will be using a brand new modern machine to create the buttonhole for this' jacket's pocket flaps and throat latches and necessary for this particular build. I've included some examples of my superior buttonhole work within the descriptive images. To include a video clip of my new machine stitching a Buttonhole. Exactly what you can expect with one of my new builds. The upgrades that are negotiable is the over dye leather work to a russet based colored hide. On my personal jackets I always chose to double the lining. Note, these USN jackets wear from the inside out & always the first thing to go on a jacket. Thus doubling the lining it greatly extends the life of one of these jackets and a good way to extend the life of your jacket for years to come. For comparison purposes also I've attached an image of a pair of brown horse hide Monarch AN-J-3 jackets to the descriptive images. As seen in the last image is of two AN-J-3 jackets. One is a size 44 regular and the other a size 48 Long. If interested in a AN-J-3 style jacket using the A-2 style front panel then please seen my other model jacket seen here eBay item 115095896615. Done by using Monarch's pre War M-422 and (mid 1930's) Security Togs A-2 type patterns. There is a waiting period for this build. If you are interested and want your jacket before the coming season I suggest you start this process now rather than waiting until the last minute as these builds take time. If interested please contact me David Sheeley at your earliest convenience to discuss your build. Please look at my other jacket options available.

Price: 1850 USD

Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia

End Time: 2024-07-28T11:58:20.000Z

Shipping Cost: 48 USD